SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA

I arrived in Spain a couple of weeks after the dreadful flooding in Valencia.  Everyone was still in a state of shock.  Sad and angry.

It took just over 2 hours to drive up Grazalema which is in the National Park not far from Ronda.  In fact one of the rainiest places in Spain although all the time I was there (November) the weather was perfect. For most of the journey, the roads were excellent and the drivers courteous about my nerves! The last few miles I took very slowly, navigating the hairpins extremely slowly until at last I could see the white buildings.

Grazalema's narrow cobbled streets would have been perfect for people and donkeys, but modern cars seem a bit of an inconvenience and actually there is plenty of parking around the edge of town. (Tip - don't even bother to drive around the old streets!)

I found my newly refurbished accommodation in the middle of town.  Beautifully appointed but not the co-living it was advertised to be.  But I was so happy to be in this beautiful spot it didn’t really matter and I found it perfectly welcoming to solo travellers. There were stunning walks on the doorstep and the most helpful lady (Lola) in the tourist office (but Tip - note opening hours before you arrive).

A short walk up the Carmino de los Charcones track behind the town on the first evening was followed by a longer one into the Pine Forest the next day (El Pinsopar).  This required a permit which Lola acquired for me. (Tip - check which routes need permits and apply in advance on line if your Spanish is good enough - they are free!) I set off alone but was soon caught up by a group of students from Cadiz.  We met at the top of the hill where the path continued along and down to another town. That was a walk with stunning views which I only did a small part of.  Finished the day watching the sun going down at the Mirador El Tajo at the bottom of the town.  There are several miradors around the town which are definitely worth finding. Here in the summer you could also use the public pool and a restaurant, but neither were open when I was there.

On another day I braved the roads again and took myself up to Zahara de la Sierra, where the walk up to the Moorish castle (Tip - worth paying the modest entry fee to access visitor displays etc) yielded more amazing views over the countryside and the flooded valley below.  The reservoir was quite controversial when first made, as beneath it were a lot of historic mills. But it suited my continuing quest to find Reflections to photograph...(see my social media- links below - if you want to see more about my 2025 Exhibition entitled "Reflections").

My timing for a trip to another neighbouring town of El Bosque was good, as I happened across a painting competition and enjoyed chatting to the artists and watching them work. Apparently there are a series of such competitions across the region every autumn. Tip - the botanical garden there is worth a visit.

On my walks I came across sheep (you may hear their bells first) and some quite curious deer, who if you keep still don't always run away. The area is also full of vultures and eagles some of which nest in the cliffs behind the town. The air smelt so fresh and the forests of protected pinsopar firs were beautiful.  The views, well, as you can see - were to die for. 

Final tips for now (more to come here later) is to try the local dish of toasted bread and grilled goats cheese, drizzled with local honey and balsamic, and topped with walnuts and to buy some of the cheese made in the village to take home with you (below town keep walking after you have found the old washing area or stocked in the delis in town).