AROUND ABERDEEN
If you are not driving all the way to Scotland (and it is a long way!) then Aberdeen airport is small and friendly. It has a hire car centre just a short walk up the hill.
HIRE CAR TIPS: Book the smallest car on offer – you nearly always get “upgraded”. Don’t book with a “broker” or an airline but instead book direct with one of the hire companies. You get great deals with the former and they usually offer a good price for fully comprehensive insurance. However, if something happens and your insurance has been booked via the broker or airline, you invariably have to pay up and then claim it back. Horrendous potential hassle I think.
The “Granite City” really does sparkle when the sun shines and has a charming mixture of historic and modern architecture. I was also impressed with the street art and the cleanliness of the city. And it’s the kind of place where you are naturally greeted as you wonder around. I was lucky enough to have great weather when I was visiting, but for a rainy day the art gallery comes highly recommended. It was unbelievably quiet to drive around in August and easy to park. Had a great evening at the impressive Music Hall watching comedian Fern Brady. The only downside was that for us southerners – getting decent food after a concert, or in fact after about 8.30pm in most places, is a challenge.
COAST NORTH OF ABERDEEN
The coast around Aberdeen is stunning. Miles of lovely quiet and clean beaches. You can drive most of the way north on coastal roads, but for a good day out, head cross country to the Lossiemouth area. The small town of Burghhead is a little gem, with its visitor centre on the site of the old Pictish fort and charming little harbour. And as for the beach – when the tide is out, it’s a breath-takingly beautiful view.
Nearby Findhorn is a better-known destination and you will find more choices of places to have a meal or just get a coffee or ice cream. TIP – to be sure of a table in anywhere half decent, especially in the summer and at weekends, its best to book. There is always something going on with surfers and sailors enjoying the waters. I was lucky enough to see some of the state of art parawings out in the estuary – it’s quite a spectacle to see the fin rise up out of the water and then the whole thing take off in the wind at phenomenal speed. It must take an enormous amount of skill and strength to control them. Very exciting to watch.
I really enjoyed visiting the quiet little seaside town of Crundon Bay where I highly recommend the Outlander B&B for its warm and welcoming landlady Genny, great attention to detail in the bedrooms, amazing home cooked breakfast and wait for it – she is also a beautician and offers all the usual treatments and massages at amazingly good value prices. From Crundon Bay you can head up through the woods to the stunning castle which inspired Bram Stoker to start writing Dracula. Take care as it’s a ruin with no health and safety considerations, but incredible views. Head the other way down the beach and if you keep going for its 3 mile length you will eventually find a footpath up the cliff to the next village from where you can head back down the road on the other side of the golf course. You’ll get great glimpses of the castle from afar as you head back to Crundon Bay. This is a quiet place with a tiny shop, and a couple of hotels where you can eat - the entertainment is the magnificent scenery. I loved it and the people were really friendly. On my long walk I came across a dead whale which had washed up the weekend before. This was certainly a more eerie experience than Dracula’s castle and left me feeling a little sad, but privileged to see such a magnificent creature up close.
COAST SOUTH OF ABERDEEN
Just a few miles in the other direction is the unspoilt seaside town of Stonehaven. A great place for a weekend as it has a fabulous 1930’s open air heated lido – Olympic size! Plus all the things you’d expect from a traditional seaside town. More than that though – lots of nice shops to browse in, a great selection of places to eat and a wonderful traditional harbour. For me there were two great highlights though. The first is the series of metal sculptures which you will encounter as you walk along the beach. And the second is that it is a only a couple of miles from the fabulous Dunnotar castle. You can walk along a coastal path to get there or drive up but go early – coach loads of tourists start descending from mid-morning!
INLAND FROM ABERDEEN
Small but worth the visit are the Falls of Feugh. (Ask the locals how to say it!) In nearby Banchory great coffee was had at Taste and an excellent lunch at Ride. Both recommended by locals. There are nice walks in the area through the woods and by the river.
The Muir of Dinnet nature reserve was another little gem with a great range of well-marked paths and a nice little visitor centre with toilets (but sadly no coffee!).
From here if you take the A939 to Granton-on-Spey on a clear day you are in for a treat. The views are magnificent and there are lots of stopping places, so give the locals a break and let them whizz past whilst you get snapping.
I was heading for the lovely watering hole of Granton to visit friends and here you have a town with a very interesting history which still has a lively high street offering everything you need for a holiday base. I recommend the adjacent Anagach woods for a walk and the path along the River Spey itself.
Scotland’s great reputation is not perhaps based on its weather but in truth you can often experience several seasons in one day so a rainy start is not always a disaster! Even when it’s a bit damp its natural beauty, fascinating history and warm people make it a great place to explore.
