There was a noise up ahead. It was hard to work out what was going on as we were in what seemed like a deserted valley full of citrus groves. There were voices too and the noise turned out to be a generator in the back of an old truck, powering a long automated rake. We had stumbled across what might have been one of the last private harvestings of olives in the valley (as it was December and late in the season). An elderly couple were striking a grand old olive tree with what looked like plastic toy rakes and in between them was their son, with the mechanised and rather more efficient version thereof.
“Where you from?” was the question raised of my guide in Greek by the family. But they didn’t mean where was he born. Episkopi is a village of only about 200 inhabitants, and Pambos explained the chances are that everyone either knew either him or his family. So the question was which family was he connected to? Once Pambos answered, it was all smiles and we were welcomed closer to the action, as the olives tumbled onto the nets below the tree. I was invited to take photos and asked where I was from, which did mean which country! Sharing my snaps prompted hugs all round. This was one of several touching encounters with local characters on that hike that I won’t forget. Earlier that morning we had met an ex bank manager who had retired to look after his goats. I was sad to hear that his family lived not with him but in the city, and preferred him to stay in the village, as they didn’t like goat aroma in their Limassol pad…
Pambos explained that most families in the village have land and they grow olives, fruit and vegetables and some keep animals. Some tend vines too. It is hard work and they don’t do it as a business, as that would simply be uneconomic, they use the produce themselves and much of the work is done by hand. In most cases the land has been owned by each family for a very long time. Whilst parts of the village are uninhabited, those who have left to work away are gradually starting to return from their city homes, even if only at weekends, to look after their fruit and vegetables and enjoy the country air. I could see why.
Food and Wine Experiences near Paphos - Pambos Wine.
Episkopi village (visitcyprus.com)
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